July 25, 1999
Beara Peninsula
Although the Dingle peninsula is famous for its rugged coastline, its
narrow roads are purported to be congested with tour buses and cars.
The scenery on the Beara peninsula (a little further south) is supposed
to be just as good, but the roads are almost desolate by comparison - perfect
for a relaxing ride.
For more info on the Beara peninsula see:
the Beara tourism site
another cycle
tourist's view of Beara
Beara peninsula - view from Allihies
Perched at the tip of the Beara peninsula is the tiny town of Allihies.
Although it only has one general store it does have a hostel and four lively
pubs, at least one of which is packed every night with lots of great music.
The town appears to be a popular stopping off point for french musicians
heading up the coast to a celtic music camp (or back). The night
I was in town there were at least two different groups of such travelling
musicians jamming with the locals. It was an incredible experience
listening to the music evolve as different musicians (and instruments)
joined in throughout the night.
For more info on Allihies
Click here
July 26, 1999
Allihies - arches
At the Village Hostel I met Nina (a french violinist/music teacher)
and Kent (an american geology student). We were all travelling alone
and spent the next day exploring the coast together. The arches above
are part of an extensive rock formation just north of Allihies. While
Kent and I sat on the rocks, high above the crashing sea, staring (homeward)
across the Atlantic, Nina brought out her violin and started playing haunting
Irish melodies -- the perfect Ireland experience - one that I didn't want
to end.
Allihies
But we did have to leave. So as Kent and Nina headed off northward,
I continued on to the south stopping to take this picture of Allihies as
I climbed the hills out of town. The pale splotch is the strand (beach)
and the town proper is the cluster of houses around it. The headwinds
for the ride into Castletownbere (and indeed over the next couple of days)
were quite strong, but since they were probably responsible for the gorgeous,
warm and sunny weather I was enjoying -- I tried not to curse them too
much.
July 27, 1999
Castletownbere
I stopped for the night at the Beara Hostel, about two miles outside
of Castletownbere, where I met a pair of German hitchhikers. We walked
into town to have a few beers and to shoot some darts, before hitching
back. This picture was taken early the next morning, when I continued
my travels back through the town.
Castletownbere is the largest town on the peninsula and sits on the
world's second-largest natural harbour.
More information on
Castletownbere
Pictures of Puxley's
mansion at Dunboy (1 mile from Castletownbere)
Castletownshend Castle
Past Skibbereen is the Anglo-Irish hamlet of Castletownshend.
The castle is open as a bed & breakfast (for info see Castletownshend
- castle), but was a little out of my price range.
Castletownshend harbour
I stopped to take a picture of the harbour before pushing my bike back
up the steep hill and going in search of the nearby Knockdrum fort -- which
I never did find. Since evening was fast approaching, I continued
on through Rineen forest to Maria's Schoolhouse (a gorgeous hostel converted
from a schoolhouse) in Union Hall.
Follow the link below for more information on
Castletownshend
July 28, 1999
Drombeg Stone Circle
Remnants of Ireland's past civilisations, like this stone circle between
Glandore and Rosscarbery, dot the landscape. Apparently if one stands
between the portal stones (the two tall stones off-centre to the left)
the sun of the summer solstice will set directly into the wide, low stone
on the opposite side of the circle.
Michael Collin's birthplace
Between Rosscarbery and Clonakilty are the remains of the house in
which Michael Collins (a near legendary figure in the Irish struggle
for independence) was born. Although other buildings from the small
homestead remain, the house later burned (supposedly by the Black and Tans).
For more information see:
Michael
Collins - Irish patriot
Michael Collins - the lost leader
Timoleague
This sleepy hamlet's main attraction is the shell of a Franciscan abbey
founded in 1240, but razed by the English throughout the 1600's it was
finally abandoned by the monks in 1696.
see also:
Timoleague
pictures of
the Abbey - by David Eby
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