Ireland
Part III: Beara peninsula to Timoleague
Although the Dingle peninsula is famous for its rugged coastline, its narrow roads are purported to be congested with tour buses and cars. The scenery on the Beara peninsula (a little further south) is supposed to be just as good, but the roads are almost desolate by comparison - perfect for a relaxing ride.
the Beara tourism site
another cycle tourist's view of Beara
Beara peninsula - view from Allihies
Perched at the tip of the Beara peninsula is the tiny town of Allihies.
Although it only has one general store it does have a hostel and four lively pubs, at least one of which is packed every night with lots of great music. The town appears to be a popular stopping off point for french musicians heading up the coast to a celtic music camp (or back). The night I was in town there were at least two different groups of such travelling musicians jamming with the locals. It was an incredible experience listening to the music evolve as different musicians (and instruments) joined in throughout the night.
Allihies - arches
At the Village Hostel I met Nina (a french violinist/music teacher) and Kent (an american geology student). We were all travelling alone and spent the next day exploring the coast together. The arches above are part of an extensive rock formation just north of Allihies. While Kent and I sat on the rocks, high above the crashing sea, staring (homeward) across the Atlantic, Nina brought out her violin and started playing haunting Irish melodies -- the perfect Ireland experience - one that I didn't want to end.
Allihies
But we did have to leave. So as Kent and Nina headed off northward, I continued on to the south stopping to take this picture of Allihies as I climbed the hills out of town. The pale splotch is the strand (beach) and the town proper is the cluster of houses around it. The headwinds for the ride into Castletownbere (and indeed over the next couple of days) were quite strong, but since they were probably responsible for the gorgeous, warm and sunny weather I was enjoying -- I tried not to curse them too much.
Castletownbere
Castletownbere is the largest town on the peninsula and sits on the world's second-largest natural harbour.
Castletownshend Castle
Past Skibbereen is the Anglo-Irish hamlet of Castletownshend. The castle is open as a bed & breakfast (for info see Castletownshend - castle), but was a little out of my price range.
I stopped to take a picture of the harbour before pushing my bike back up the steep hill and going in search of the nearby Knockdrum fort -- which I never did find. Since evening was fast approaching, I continued on through Rineen forest to Maria's Schoolhouse (a gorgeous hostel converted from a schoolhouse) in Union Hall.
Drombeg Stone Circle
Remnants of Ireland's past civilisations, like this stone circle between Glandore and Rosscarbery, dot the landscape. Apparently if one stands between the portal stones (the two tall stones off-centre to the left) the sun of the summer solstice will set directly into the wide, low stone on the opposite side of the circle.
Between Rosscarbery and Clonakilty are the remains of the house in which Michael Collins (a near legendary figure in the Irish struggle for independence) was born. Although other buildings from the small homestead remain, the house later burned (supposedly by the Black and Tans).
This sleepy hamlet's main attraction is the shell of a Franciscan abbey founded in 1240, but razed by the English throughout the 1600's it was finally abandoned by the monks in 1696.
Next: Kinsale to Kilkenny
Site constructed by Murray A. Francis
email: murray@francis.com